Bivy in crevasse on summit ridge

This is a four minute unedited video that I took while waiting for the sun.

Pangbuk Ri Summit View

Awesome

This is a unedited movie I shot mid climb with my point and shoot camera. Enjoy

The route

This is the basic route, with are last high camp site as the black triangle. We descended to the left of the flag and down the basin behind the left sky line

Pangbuk Ri, climbed

2:00am wake up, 4:00am start

Its is time for me to get some pictures from are climb out, Chad wrote a nice peace at his site and I plan on giving it more with time, but for the moment I will give out the images and work on the story later when my batteries are recharged. Thanks to all who have waited. One other thing, we burned out on taking pictures as it got dark and on the nerve racking decent (see last shot in post for a idea), so you will see shots from the first day and the following morning on the summit. The rest will have to be shared in word.

Heading up to the up the day before to climb the waterfall and leave ropes set.

Chad climbing water ice to leave set up for following morning (the ropes got frozen in and I spent at least a hour re-climbing it and chopping out the ropes in the dark on the summit push).

We soloed above the waterfall for about 300m before roping up.

Many hanging (OK leaning) belays on this climb

Chad leading very typical terrain on the climb.

We mostly found Ice, but ran into some long run outs on the way.             Photo C Kellogg

Chad reaches a dead end and we rappel down the other side into another runnel.

The runnels just kept coming.

Ice fall in a shoot off to my left.    Photo C Kellogg

Sun setting on Everest.

My last picture before night fall.

This and the above shot are from the next morning on the summit.

Rowaling

Family on a hike up to Bedding

 Chad and I have passed over Tashilapsa pass (5765m or 18700ft) from the Rowaling and arrived for shopping and R&R in Namche. Are time in the Rowaling was a journey of the hart, visiting friends telling story's and receiving a beautiful Puja.We hiked to great vistas and beautiful lakes as well a climbed Yalang Ri ( 5570m or 1800ft ) in classic Chad style ( 8hr round trip from Na, 1400m or 4600ft ). Once we decided to head out of the valley it started to snow and all the other trekkers turned back so it was left up to us to navigate the upper valley in new snow and make are way over the pass. As part of are Puja we where told to put prayer flags in the pass, we strung five lines of flags together and tied them to cairn's at the highest point and watched in amazement as the wind blew the sacred energy of the Rowaling and prayers for a safe climb into the Solu Kumbu.

Bedding

David, Norbu and Chad in Norbu's home

Kata placed for Joe.

The Lady's of Cheekamu, Chhon Jum Sherpa and Chhring Yangzum Sherpa

Upper Rowaling

Tashilapsa Pass ( 5765m 1800ft)

Kathmandu to Singati

Chad at the bus station in Kathmandu.

Within the first hour the front tire blew out.

Always room for more passengers.

Dawa met Chad and I at 5:30 am and walked us to the main public bus station for are journey to Singati. Its hard to convey the richness of such a trip, "very intimate". Baby's, goats, people and goods for the high mountains filling the aisle and the roof. Chad and I are still debating whether this was a suffer fest or totally awesome Nepal travel. Happily we did not get sick. Truck stop Dhal Bhat, one blown tire and lots of beautiful people siting and laying on us and arrived in under 11 hours. Success!

Last day in Kathmandu

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 We started out the day by getting are meds right at the java then headed to the ministry of tourism for the normal bureaucratic experience. The rest of the day was spent doing final packing. We leave at 5am and will be out of communications for the next two weeks. All post when we get to Namche.

Wild life down town

All the hard work pays off

Ya, that's me on the billboard

Home away from home, Hotel Blue Horizon

The new court yard and buildings

Sujit me and Benod (king pins at HBH)

I'm Back at the Hotel Blue Horizon on the edge of Thamel. They have done extensive remodels with Wi-Fi throughout the hotel and new bathrooms in the old building as well two new buildings and a spacious court yard and outdoor dining area. That is great but the important part for me is the staff is still super friendly, the rooms tidy and its on a quite side street close to Thamel as well as Dubar Marg and the climbing wall. One last thing, great value

Nepal time

At one of two nice climbing gyms in Kathmandu

 Chad and I have been making good use of are time while we wait for the ministry of tourism and the banks to open so we can get are permits and hit the trail. The most important thing at this point in the expedition is staying healthy. For me that means eating well, wearing my dust mask in the streets, drinking lots of water, hand washing and getting lots of exercise.

A chance encounter with friends. L to R Chad, Jiban Ghimire, Lapka Rita Sherpa.

Appreciation

Many thanks go out to the friends who helped get this project going. If you see a link on this site to a company, they helped me out with gear. Extra thanks to Julie Hentrich, Michelle Puryear, Graham Williams, Dave Allan, Day Frostenson (keeping me on time), Big Daddy commando (you know who you are) Elizabeth Hawley and my family.

Interview with Miss Hawley

In front of Hotel Blue Horizon

Miss Hawley, Chad and David

 The call from Miss Hawley came at our hotel within a hour of arriving in Kathmandu with a appointment to be interviewed the following day at her home. The next afternoon her punctual driver arrived in the in the iconic 63 baby blue Volkswagen Beetle and drove us over to her home and office. After making us comfortable she got to work asking pointed questions that revealed her great knowledge of Himalayan mountaineering.


Those of us who love Himalayan climbing owe a dept of gratitude for her many years of interviews and research that make up the awesome Himalayan Data Base